Louis Baxters, Subiaco
Louis Baxters is named after its owners’ French bulldogs: Louis Pierre, owned by Laki Baker, and Baxter, owned by sprint swimmer Eamon Sullivan, who is currently in London as part of the Australian Olympic Team. Baker and Sullivan were both born in Perth but met in Sydney on the set of Celebrity Masterchef Australia, where she was a producer and he, a contestant and the eventual winner. Out of their friendship, a business partnership was born, driven by a shared appreciation for great food and coffee.
I went to Louis Baxters for breakfast on a recent day off. It’s very easy to get to – just catch the Fremantle train and get off at Subiaco. Take the stairs or escalator up and you’re there – it’s one of the shops along the perimeter at the street level of Subiaco Station. I’m a big fan of gooey eggs and was keen to try Louis Baxters’ 60-minute slow poached egg.
At around 8am the place was bustling with workers grabbing their daily morning caffeine hit on their way to the office. Most hung around the doorway or perched around the communal table flicking through magazines while the barista made their coffee. I was among the breakfasters sitting at the tables along the wall. Eamon wasn’t around, but Laki was busy taking orders at the counter, greeting her regulars by name.
Louis Baxters has that industrial look that’s so hot right now in cafes – there are exposed pipes and cabling in the ceiling from where bare light bulbs hang, and the tables are raw pine. Seating is mostly on stools. On the wall is a striking mural (if you have sharp eyes you may spot a French bulldog’s pointed ears, right in the corner).
The coffee at Louis Baxters is by Campos, a specialty coffee roaster popular in the Eastern states.
I enjoyed a very fine cup of Campos coffee at The Fine Food Store at The Rocks the last time I was in Sydney. The only thing I’m not so fond of are the Campos cups – a little too small!
But back to the egg. It was a delicate orb, wobbly like jelly, served on wilted spinach and juicy button mushrooms with a stack of toasted New Norcia bread.
Just a little freshly cracked black pepper and I gently burst the egg with my knife. I resisted the overwhelming urge to lick the plate (too many stranger witnesses who would judge my greedy manners) and instead mopped up every last blob of slippery goo with everything else on the plate.
While ordering my second cup of coffee I couldn’t resist getting a slice of the thick-cut banana bread as well, toasted and served with butter. The butter was served fridge-hard and my attempts to spread it on the bread more resembled digging holes. It was somewhat uglier by the time I took my first bite, but it tasted good.
I didn’t need lunch that day.
I enjoyed my breakfast at Louis Baxters and look forward to my next visit. Maybe next time I’ll be in a chocolate mood to try the dish Eamon Sullivan cooked at the Celebrity Masterchef finale – his signature chocolate delice (here’s the chocolate delice recipe at Eamon’s blog).
P.S. Bad luck with the 4x100m freestyle relay, Eamon, but I’m still cheering for you in the 50m freestyle!
Shop 2, Subiaco Square (right next to Subiaco Train Station, street level)
Subiaco WA 6008
Monday to Friday 7am to 4pm
Saturday 8am to 4pm
Closed Sundays and public holidays
Breakfast is available Monday to Friday 7am to 11.30am and Saturdays 8am to 11.30am.
Chefs of the Margaret River Competition
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