The resort that Perth forgot

I rarely buy anything from the various coupon deal mailing lists that I subscribe to, but this offer caught my eye: a discounted getaway with two nights accommodation (Friday and Saturday night) at El Caballo Resort in Wooroloo, with a bottle of sparkling wine on arrival, daily “wholesome traditional country breakfast buffet” for two, and a $40 dinner voucher to use in the onsite restaurant.

I’ve called this post ‘The resort that Perth forgot’, but perhaps that isn’t strictly true. Perth people will probably remember the famous El Caballo Blanco dancing stallion show from the 1970s and 80s. My family came to Western Australia in 1986 and I remember the El Caballo Blanco advertisements on television. Ours was a working-class migrant family with five children, so going to see the show was out of the question – but still, whenever I hear the words “El Caballo” it is always a blast from the past, a reminder of the mid-80s, when my favourite treats at the school tuckshop were eucalyptus lollies (3 for 10 cents), a Peter’s Bucket vanilla ice cream eaten with a wooden paddle, and my regular lunch order of a crumbed sausage in a buttered roll with tomato sauce.

Curiosity, nostalgia and an excuse for an inexpensive short getaway compelled me to click to ‘Buy’ button. We made a booking for the Queen’s birthday weekend, which in Western Australia is the last weekend of September, coinciding with the AFL Grand Final (for my non-Australian readers, the Queen’s birthday public holiday is on different dates in different states). We’re big fans of ‘local’ holidays – Wooroloo’s about a hour’s drive from home – not such a long drive we needed to plan our toilet stops, but good enough for a weekend away.

El Caballo Resort entranceEl Caballo’s Spanish-style architecture provides a grand facade – in both senses of the word

The original El Caballo Resort was established in 1974 by a Perth businessman named Ray Williams (now passed away), who brought Andalusian stallions to this sprawling property in Wooroloo, Western Australia. The El Caballo Blanco dancing stallion shows were held in a special arena here at the resort. Williams also opened an El Caballo Blanco theme park in Sydney which featured dancing stallions as well as other attractions – water slides, train rides, and even a small zoo. The Sydney theme park has closed down, and there are no more horses at El Caballo Resort in Wooroloo – though remnants from its former magnificence remain.

I found this ad for El Caballo Blanco Sydney on YouTube – I remember very similar ads for El Caballo Blanco in Perth. Do you have any memories of El Caballo Blanco?

We went for a walk around the grounds after breakfast on Saturday morning to check out the El Caballo Blanco Dancing Horse Spectacular arena, no longer in use. The emptiness of the stables was especially stark as we noted how many stalls there were, imagining them once filled with proud stallions.

Old horse stablesSo many empty horse stables.

The stables

The El Caballo Blanco arena The El Caballo Blanco arena, where stallions used to dance and strut

DSCF0476

Abandoned kioskThe kiosk where cool drinks, fairy floss, popcorn, lollies and chocolates were sold on show nights

We hoped we’d be able to find somewhere to watch the footy grand final, and on Saturday afternoon, we joined other resort guests in one of the function rooms to watch the game on a big screen, buying snacks and drinks from the bar. At most, there were around a dozen footy fans in the room.

The staff were friendly and pleasant to deal with, from the lovely lady at reception who made us feel very welcome, to the softly spoken shy waiter who looked after us for all meals at the restaurant.

Our room, while generally clean and tidy, featured stained carpets and was crying out for refurbishment. The resort isn’t just dated; it’s run-down and showing the dreary signs of neglect: the dried-up swampy state of the ponds near the front door; walls, ceilings and sculptures in need of a thorough cobwebbing; the windows in need of a high-pressure hosing; the dying plants by the stairs; the smell of damp near the guests’ entrance.

BedThe bed’s headboard bore the stains of guests before us

Restaurant Restaurant dining room

DSCF0428There’s a piano in the restaurant but we had to be content with piano muzak via a CD

While I wouldn’t add El Caballo to my list of recommended restaurants, the food was better than expected.

El Caballo restaurant dinner menuThe restaurant’s embossed leather menus provide another reminder of the resort’s dancing stallion era

The Moroccan harira soup (AU$8) was well spiced and hearty, possibly too substantial as an entree.

Moroccan harira soup (AU$8) Moroccan harira soup (AU$8)

The crisp oven baked herb garlic bread (AU$3.50) was made using the bake-at-home rolls you can buy at the supermarket.

Crisp oven baked herb garlic bread (AU$3.50) Crisp oven baked herb garlic bread (AU$3.50)

The El Caballo Caesar salad (AU$12) was an enormous serving for the price. It consisted of herb grilled chicken, cos lettuce, shaved parmesan, cherry tomatoes, a poached egg and anchovy dressing. You may notice I didn’t mention bacon – that’s because there wasn’t any! Incredibly, and despite not sticking to the traditional list of ingredients – tomato really does not belong in a Caesar salad – we still found it delicious and couldn’t stop eating it.

El Caballo Caesar salad - herb grilled chicken, crisp cos lettuce, shaved parmesan, cherry tomatoes, gooey poached egg and anchovy dressing (AU$12) El Caballo Caesar salad (AU$12)

For main course, Jac chose the pancetta-wrapped hake filet, sauteed spinach with creamy baby leek and crab sauce (AU$29), and I had the creamy chicken fricassee served with forester of wild mushroom (AU$29). Both came with oven-roasted potatoes (slightly overdone) and a cup of baked vegetables – broccoli, cauliflower and peas.

Pancetta-wrapped hake filet, sauteed spinach with creamy baby leek and crab sauce (AU$29) Pancetta-wrapped hake filet, sauteed spinach with creamy baby leek and crab sauce (AU$29)

Creamy chicken fricassee served with forester of wild mushroom and herb new potato (AU$29) Creamy chicken fricassee served with forester of wild mushroom and herb new potato (AU$29)

Dining roomBreakfast dining room

We had the buffet breakfast on Saturday. The scrambled eggs and mushrooms were good, but the bacon needed a decent frying. When a breakfast fry-up leaves me still craving bacon, you know it wasn’t quite right.

Buffet breakfastBuffet breakfast fry-up with toast

For dinner on Saturday night, we skipped entree and went straight to main courses. Jac chose a salad: goat cheese and walnut parcels with marinated cherry tomato, pickled cucumber, roasted walnuts, seasonal leaves in old age balsamic dressing (AU$13). Again, another generous portion and a nicely made salad. The goat cheese and walnut parcels were lovely, shaped like mini wantans.

Goat cheese and walnut parcel with marinated cherry tomato, pickled cucumber, roasted walnuts, seasonal leaves in old age balsamic dressing (AU$13)Goat cheese and walnut parcel with marinated cherry tomato, pickled cucumber, roasted walnuts, seasonal leaves in old age balsamic dressing (AU$13)

I didn’t expect to find one of the best risottos I’ve eaten this year in a neglected resort somewhere on the road to the Western Australian wheatbelt, but here it was: wild mushroom risotto (AU$26) – creamy, flavoursome and loaded with mushrooms.

Earthy wild mushroom risotto (AU$26) Earthy wild mushroom risotto (AU$26)

We didn’t have a ‘bad’ weekend (which also included a visit to the Manager’s Tearooms and Restaurant in Bakers Hill) but ‘resort’ implies a certain standard of accommodation and I think most people would expect better, even for a ‘budget’ resort in a town these days best known by Perth people for its minimum-security prison. As part of the Cudo deal, we paid $199 for two nights (instead of $432).

It is clear El Caballo Resort has grown very old and no longer attracts the crowds it was built to cater for. We didn’t go looking for dust, cobwebs, cracks and stains – they were plain to see, disappointingly, all around us.

In the lobby there is a display promoting El Caballo Lifestyle Village for over-45s – an ambitious 5-stage project currently at stage 1, with just a small number of homes sold out of the 180 that are planned. As part of the package, village residents will have access to all the resort facilities. Will this provide impetus to drag El Caballo Resort out of the doldrums?

The old posters, paintings and horse carriage in the lobby are reminders of El Caballo’s character and history, but no business can live forever on the memories from its glory days nor the promise of better times to come. El Caballo doesn’t need 5 stars to become the oasis of Wooroloo. What’s missing now is not the magic of dancing white stallions; it’s a serious spring-clean and makeover. Even if its days of grand spectacle are beyond resurrection and its principal punters look set to be lifestyle villagers, I’d love to see El Caballo proud and full of life again.

Mini golf course There’s a pool, mini golf, tennis courts and an 18-hole golf course next door

Chairs

El Caballo Resort
Great Eastern Highway
Wooroloo WA 6558
Telephone: (08) 9573 3777

Restaurant
Thursday: dinner
Friday to Sunday: breakfast, lunch and dinner
You have very limited dining options all other days

View Larger Map

Since 2007 there’s been a new, independent dancing stallion show called ‘El Caballo Blanco‘ which has travelled around Australia.

Facebook comments

comments

,  Like

Share this post

  • Adam Webb

    This is so sad. I have wonderful memories as a child with my family at El Caballo Blanco. And Im all for fixing the place up- it would be biggest fixer-upper but I would think that Perth could do with a Spanish inspired family get-away with affordable (in Perth, I know Im kidding) pricing. Throw in a big pool, decent tapas (which every third restaurant is doing these days anyway) and plenty of flowering Bougainvillea, and everyone would be back.

  • Craig Hind

    OMG. That’s pretty much all! :-)

  • Honest recommendation :) It makes me sad that places that used to be great do not keep a proper level. But hey, you had the best risotto :)

  • Julia Munro

    Such a sad post, hope they take your feedback on board and give it a tight old tizzy. Sounds like it had potential.

  • The Chefs Wife Perth

    El Caballo was the first weekend away my husband and I had together (as 20year olds). I remember thinking how run down it was then, 10 years ago. It’s sad, but there’s a few of those places born out of the 80s boom that didn’t last the distance (like Atlantis and Dizzy Lamb park). I find the empty horse stadium quite eerie – a bit like King Neptune sitting lonely on the hill at Two Rocks. Such an interesting post :)

  • Wen Yang Lee

    You know TFP, if not for your description, I would have thought that you went travelling to some forgotten Spanish outpost in the dessert lol. It justs looks so bad =/

  • Sad that it’s best days seem to be behind it. It does look a big Ghost Town-ey. But great that you had such a lovely mushroom risotto and Caesar Salad – even with no bacon!!! ;)

  • Annie Wade

    I remember El Caballo Blanco like this in 1975. It was my favorite place to compete. I knew two of the trainers Bart and Fernando and fell in love with Andalusian horses. I live in New York now and came across your blog because I am going to the camel races in Dubai. My blog is Nagsandwags.blogspot.com Thank you for sharing your El Caballo experience, Annie Wade.

  • Cindy M

    Looks like an elegant place, now a bit dated. I hope they manage to stay open. The Moroccan harira soup looks exactly like chili. The roasted potatoes with your chicken dish…yum!! Yes, your not being entirely satisfied with the bacon…something’s up. ;-)

    And I must add, considering that I live in an area of the States which was highly colonised by Spaniards, that it’d give me a turn, seeing such a place in Australia. I wouldn’t expect it in the Czech Republic either (my paternal family homeland). Just sayin’.

  • Gourmanda

    Oh my, it certainly looks incredibly run down – the stains on the bed made me cringe! It’s always sad when you see places like this that are clearly past their glory days.